By Dr Petre Prins
For centuries, pearls have been regarded as some of the world’s most treasured gems and are still honoured today as “The Queen of Gems.” Their soft lustre and graceful beauty have long symbolised purity, modesty and unblemished perfection. Throughout history, pearls have inspired admiration, desire and deep cultural significance.
Until the early 1900s, natural pearls were rare and accessible only to the wealthy and powerful. This changed when Kokichi Mikimoto, a Japanese pioneer, discovered that placing a small irritant inside an oyster could stimulate the formation of nacre. His breakthrough led to the development of the saltwater cultured pearl industry and transformed the world of pearl jewellery.
In recent years, Chinese freshwater pearl growers have further advanced the field, producing cultured pearls of impressive quality at affordable prices. As a result, pearl lovers today enjoy a wider range of sizes, lustre and colours than ever before. Even an entry-level freshwater pearl can rival the appearance of more costly varieties. Pearls have become accessible to all ages and styles, while still retaining the elegance that has defined them throughout history.
Prins & Prins – A New Source of Cultured Pearls
Pearls remain one of the most meaningful gifts for weddings, anniversaries and special occasions. They are traditionally associated with virtue, purity and devotion, making them especially cherished for bridal jewellery.
Pearls in Ancient Times
Ancient civilisations regarded pearls with a sense of mystery. Many cultures believed they were connected to the moon and carried magical properties. Pearls appear frequently in mythology, folklore and biblical references.
The oldest known piece of pearl jewellery dates back to around 520 B.C. It was discovered in the sarcophagus of a Persian princess and is now displayed in the Louvre Museum in Paris. This remarkable artefact highlights the long-standing fascination human beings have had with pearls.
The Egyptians highly prized pearls and valued them enough to be buried with their collections. Cleopatra is said to have dissolved a pearl in wine to demonstrate her wealth and host the most extravagant banquet in history.
The Romans viewed pearls as symbols of immense wealth and status. One Roman general is believed to have financed an entire military campaign by selling a pair of his mother’s pearl earrings. Another tale claims that Emperor Caligula adorned his horse with a pearl necklace.
The Greeks held pearls in equally high regard, using them in romantic customs and ceremonies. To them, pearls symbolised love, commitment and marital harmony. The Greek word for pearl means “unique,” reflecting the idea that no two pearls are alike.
Pearls in the 20th Century
The 20th century brought dramatic change to the pearl industry. After the introduction of cultured pearls in Japan, global availability increased and prices stabilised. Pearl farms were established across Japan, China, French Polynesia and Australia, each producing pearls of distinctive character.
Akoya Pearls
These classic white-to-cream pearls, farmed mainly in Japan and China, became the standard for elegant pearl strands from the 1950s onward. Their round shape and high lustre made them the definitive choice for graduations, weddings and milestone celebrations.
South Sea Pearls
Produced in the warm waters of Australia, Indonesia and the Philippines, South Sea pearls are among the rarest and most coveted. Their thick nacre creates exceptional lustre in white, silver and deep golden hues. Because they grow in much larger oysters, South Sea pearls often reach impressive sizes — and equally impressive values.
Tahitian Pearls
Often called “black pearls,” Tahitian pearls are famous for their natural colours ranging from grey and peacock green to aubergine. Their unique tones transformed pearl jewellery in the late 20th century, offering a contemporary alternative to traditional white strands.
Freshwater Pearls
China’s freshwater pearl revolution reshaped the global market. Advances in cultivation techniques produced pearls with better shape, higher lustre and remarkable colour variety. Today, freshwater pearls offer outstanding value and beauty, making pearl jewellery accessible to a new generation.
Pearls in Modern Jewellery
Today, designers and wearers embrace pearls in both traditional and contemporary forms. From classic strands and stud earrings to bold modern pieces, pearls continue to evolve while retaining their timeless appeal.
Modern pearl buyers consider several factors:
- Lustre – the sharpness and intensity of reflections on the surface
- Surface clarity – the presence or absence of natural marks
- Shape – round, oval, baroque or button shapes each carry their own charm
- Colour – white, cream, silver, golden, pink, lavender, black and peacock
- Nacre thickness – especially important in saltwater cultured pearls
- Size – larger pearls are rarer and more valuable
Choosing the Right Pearl
Selecting a pearl depends on personal taste, symbolism and intended use. For bridal jewellery, white Akoya pearls remain a favourite. For collectors, golden South Sea or peacock Tahitian pearls hold undeniable allure. For everyday elegance or gifting, freshwater pearls offer versatility, affordability and beauty.
Through all these variations, one truth remains unchanged: pearls possess a quiet sophistication unmatched by any other gem. Their natural formation, gentle glow and cultural symbolism continue to inspire awe — and will undoubtedly do so for generations to come.