Trust is the cornerstone of the jewelry industry. For generations, diamonds have symbolized authenticity, love, and enduring value—but with the rising presence of laboratory-grown diamonds, the industry is facing a new challenge: undisclosed synthetic diamonds entering the market.
At Prins & Prins Diamonds, we believe in full disclosure, customer trust, and the responsible sourcing of gemstones. That’s why we’re exploring a critical topic in the jewelry world today: how retailers, gemologists, and manufacturers can defend against undisclosed lab-grown diamonds.
Why Detection and Disclosure Matter More Than Ever
The demand for diamonds continues to grow, but so does the supply of lab-grown diamonds—which now make up an estimated 8–10% of the global diamond production. According to data from Gemological Science International (GSI), 1 in every 10 melee diamonds may be synthetic, meaning if your jewelry has multiple small diamonds, there’s a statistical chance at least one is lab-grown without proper screening (Inns, 2022).
The jewelry industry relies on consumer trust. When a client purchases a diamond, they expect it to be exactly what it’s claimed to be—natural or lab-grown, disclosed honestly. Failing to detect and disclose lab-grown stones not only risks that trust, it also threatens the reputation and legal compliance of your business.
A Three-Pronged Defense: Equipment, People, and Practices
Alethea Inns, Chief Learning Officer at GSI, recommends a three-pronged defense against the growing threat of undisclosed lab-grown diamonds:
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Advanced Equipment
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Education and Trained Personnel
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Robust Business Practices
(Source: Inns, A. Laboratory-Grown Detection: A Three-Pronged Defense Against Undisclosed Diamonds, 2022)
1. Equipment: Know the Limits of Traditional Testers
Many traditional testers rely on thermal or electrical conductivity to identify diamonds. However, lab-grown diamonds share the same conductivity as natural ones—rendering tools like handheld thermal testers ineffective.
Additionally, some diagnostic techniques—such as checking for inscriptions, internal strain patterns, or inclusions—are no longer conclusive:
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Lab-grown diamonds may contain inclusions.
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Natural diamonds may be flawless.
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Inscription labels can be removed or forged.
Inns advises jewelers to use multiple complementary devices. Screening and testing are not the same:
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Screening offers a “pass” or “refer” result, often in bulk.
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Testing involves deeper analysis of individual stones.
No single device is foolproof. Consider the type of items you test (loose or mounted), the volume, whether you require manual or automated analysis, and the level of operator training required.
2. People: Education Is the Most Valuable Investment
Detection tools are only as effective as the people using them. As technology evolves, even experienced gemologists must update their knowledge regularly.
At Prins & Prins, our expert gemologists continually train in the latest detection techniques. We ensure that:
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Sales consultants have a basic understanding of diamond types.
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Gemologists stay current with CVD and HPHT growth methods.
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Staff are confident discussing diamond origins with customers.
Retailers should also demand written guarantees from suppliers and ask pointed questions about the sourcing of each stone—especially for melee diamonds in pre-set jewelry.
3. Business Practices: Implement Internal Checks
Your equipment and people are only as good as your internal systems. Having standardized procedures can help prevent errors and instill consumer confidence.
Recommended best practices include:
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Keeping detailed records of diamond origins and certificates.
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Running periodic random screenings of stock items.
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Clearly separating natural and lab-grown diamonds in inventory systems.
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Offering transparency at the point of sale, both verbally and in written documentation.
The “Sweet Spot” of Diamond Assurance
When all three areas—equipment, people, and business practices—are aligned, you reach what GSI refers to as the “sweet spot” of diamond assurance. At this point, you’ve taken sufficient precautions to protect:
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Your clients’ investment
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Your store’s reputation
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The integrity of the entire jewelry industry
Prins & Prins Diamonds: Leading with Integrity
At Prins & Prins, we embrace full transparency. Every diamond we sell—natural or laboratory-grown—is certified, properly disclosed, and ethically sourced. Our in-house graduate gemologists and master goldsmiths apply rigorous standards of testing and verification. Whether you’re buying a bespoke engagement ring or an heirloom piece, you can trust that you are receiving exactly what has been promised.
References
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Inns, Alethea. Laboratory-Grown Detection: A Three-Pronged Defense Against Undisclosed Diamonds. Gemological Science International (GSI), 2022.
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Gemological Science International. https://www.gemscience.net
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JCK Online. Lab-Grown Diamond Market Trends, 2022.
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GIA (Gemological Institute of America). https://www.gia.edu
